Friday, June 22, 2018

Europe Pt.2 1999-2000

Weeks 1-3

Pre Travel Article
To everybody, this is a article I am submitting to a couple newspapers, posting on my website (www.walkingman.org) and sending to all my friends. Will be emailing a weekly article starting around November 9th, about my walk across Europe.

Flying to Barcelona, Spain on November 1st to restart my walk across Europe. I have already walked across the USA, from Florida to California, 2463 miles in 87 days. My Europe walk started in Lisbon, Portugal to Nules, Spain, 1042 miles in 42 days. Unfortunately I got sick and had to stop to recuperate. Taking the train down to Nules to restart where I stopped. Walking east along the coast of Spain, France, Italy, ferry across to Greece, down to Athens, then up to Istanbul, Turkey. Looks like about 3000 miles more to go, at about 25 miles per day, it should take me about 4 months.

Every night I set up my tent just off the road in the woods and fire up my stove to cook some dinner with. I have been using a 3 wheel baby jogger to carry all my gear. Tent, sleeping bag, gas stove, clothes, food, water, camera, flashlight, radio, personnel care items, pocketmail computer, about 50 pounds altogether. Just bought a bigfoot red wagon, making a harness to pull it with out of two ski poles and a hip belt from my backpack. It can carry 330 pounds as opposed to 75 for my three wheel baby jogger. So if I can get it set up comftable to pull I will use it. Definetly could use the extra capacity for extra food and water when crossing desert areas.

I have just bought a sharp pocketmail computer (www.pocketmail.com) that I can send and recieve email with from any telephone in the world. Every week I will be writing an article about my adventures and emailing it to family, friends, newspaper, and my website. My website (www.walkingman.org) has all my articles, some pictures, and extra chapters for a book I have been trying to get published.

Just finishing up working for the summer at Wahweap Lodge in Page, Arizona. Heading back east October 14th to visit family and friends in Virgina and Olcott, New York by October 21st. If you have any questions or comments or want me to give a short talk to your school or club email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . Looking foward to hearing from everybody, will be able to respond in one or two days, depending on volume of emails I get. Total World Walk miles so far-3505 miles. My motto is "If your desire to suceed is strong enough you can accoplish anything". Gary Walkingman Hause.

First Week
11-3-99 to 11-10-99 Nules, Spain to Villa Franca del Penedes, via Castello and Tarragona 175 miles, 25mpd, 3697 total world walk miles.

Feels good to be back on the road again walking. Camping out every night and watching the sun rise and set every day. Meeting nice people from all over the world and having interesting things happen every day.

Quite a few people have been beeping, waving, saluting, thumbs up, and stopping to talk. I have a USA flag on a small pole, and a sign "walking around the world" on my stroller. So far I have talked to people from Japan, USA, Germany, Holland, Finland, Denmark, Canada, Lithawainia, and Spain.

I am walking along the northeast coast of Spain now, mostly orange groves, olives, vinyards, and some vegtables. Should be passing in to France in about a week, averging about 25 miles per day. Have developed blisters on both heels that I had to apply moleskin to, otherwise holding up fine.

My flight to Barcelona, Spain was cancelled due to fog in Detroit. Luckily they were able to put me on a more direct flight that got me there a half hour earlier. I took the train down south 200 miles to Nules, where I got sick 2 years ago. Arrived by 2pm, assembled my stroller and was able to get in 9 miles in beautiful sunny weather. No rain yet, 70 degress during the day, cooling off to 40 to 50 at night. At Opressa I waded in to the med, to cold for swimming, but a cold shower in the sun felt good.

While in Lockport I visited the old grey goose, who I worked with 25 years ago at camp kenan and the ymca. I guess I can say goose has probably affected me and a lot of people, more than anyone else. Check out his website at www.oldgreygoose.com for stories about his interesting life. I had a lot of interesting hikes, adventures, songs, and stories over the years with goose.

My radio flyer bigfoot wagon I was testing out did not work out, I could not get the harness I was building to feel right. I was able to find a stronger three wheel baby jogger on the internet at www.runaboutstrollers.com . Right now I have about 65 pounds of camping gear, food and water in a 20 gallon plastic rubbermaid footlocker, and a 5 gallon plastic bucket. Everyday I drink about 4 of the 1.5 liter bottled water, not taking any chance of getting sick on bad water this trip.

If you have any questions or comments on my walk, check out my website at www.walkingman.org or email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . I have been getting some email from friends and family, and it is always nice to hear from everybody while I am on the road. my motto is "if your desire to suceed is strong enough, you can acomplish anything". Till next week, I am headed northeast towards France, adios. gary walkingman hause

Week Two
2nd Week, 11-10 to 11-16 Villa Franca del Penedes, Spain to Viladamat. 144 miles, 21 mpd, 3831 total World Walk miles.

Rain and cold weather have slowed me down a bit this week, but I am in no hurry. Three nights of rain, but only one day of rain. Bundled in my wool army pants, wool army sweater, and nylon yamaha motorcycle coveralls, I kept warm and dry as I walked. The night of the 16th dropped down to freezing, had to add my wool pants and jacket on during the night. Ice covered my tent in the morning. Off in the distance I can see snow on top of Pic du Canigou, 2784 meters high (about 9000 feet) in the Pyrenees mountains.

Usually I linger longer in the cafes on cold rainy days. Checking my email daily now on my pocketmail computer. Quite nice to hear from friends, family, and even strangers that have read my newspaper articles.

Passed through Barcelona on the 11th, saw a nice old restored roman vila right in town. Have been seeing old roman ruins, monuments, arches, and old castles or fortresses. I walked down the La Rambla street where they have mimes, artists, musicsans, and preformers. Met and talked to two mormon missionaries from the USA, a couple from Denmark, and a Finn.

Difficult finding my way out of Barcelona on the coast road. Easy on the autovia, but the local road wound through an industrial area back and forth. Stopped by the police to check my passport. The road was quite narrow and the police said some one had telephoned to complain about the crazy american on the road. No problem, they wished me a good journey and I gave them my card with website address.

Big waves crashing on the beach, quite a few surfers out in wetsuits. Stefan from Germany stopped to chat and share a drink and some cookies. He brought out some chairs and table from his van to sit at. Always nice when a complete stranger stops to talk and share food and drink. Hans Kusters and his wife stopped to talk while walking their dog, and then two days later saw me again in their car and stopped to talk. They gave me some cookies, good advice on which road to take, and some francs and pesatas to help me on my walk. I usually do not like to accept money from strangers as I do not need it, but I also do not like to disapoint people who like to help me out.

Almost hit by van near Blanes. Narrow shoulder, and the man seemed to be looking at something on the other side. He drifted right at me, so I pushed my stroller in to the grass and was just missed by about a foot. I always keep a very close eye on all the traffic coming at me, as quite a few seem to be talking on their cell phone.

Had my best day yet, 122 miles according to my wheel odometer. Did not seem right though, so I double checked against my road map, looks more like 24 miles. Will have to reset my odometer with the correct wheel diameter again.

Well till next week, I am headed north for France. If you have any questions or comments about my walk, check out my website at www.walkingman.org and or email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

vaya con dios,
gary walkingman hause

Week Three
11-17 to 11-23 Viladamat, Spain to Sete, France, via Perpignan and Beziers 147 miles, 21 mpd, 3978 total World Walk miles.

Bonjour from France, crossed the border at la Junquera. 52 days and 1200 miles across Spain, in two parts. Switched from the coast road as it was quite narrow with no shoulder to a better road further inland on the advice of Hans Fuster who stopped to talk. Slight incline up to a pass of about 1000 feet and border town of le Perthus on the French side. Big fortress on the hill overlooking border, and some smaller roman ruins along the road. A section of the old roman has been preserved in a turnout, with some info on old roman ruins and roads in the area. I once read an article in the Utne Reader magazine that explained why modern trains have the same axle length of roman chariots from 2000 years ago. Anybody that can email me the correct reason will win a free trip on the first space ship available to the stars with me or something else good. Will give you answer next week.

Witnessed quite a fireworks show on the 17th from my tent. The yearly display of meteorites from the Tut-Hubble comet was quite spectacular. The full moon on the 22nd rising in east to guide me across France was also quite nice.

While having coffee in a cafe I was invited to join Jean Paul and Ann Le Coq for lunch. I had an excellent lunch of trout, potatoes, green beans, and frommage blanc for dessert. They knew only a little engish, and I only a little french, but we were able to communicate and enjoy an excellent luch.

Cold nights and frosty mornings this week. While having coffee in front of a fire in a cafe in Sigean, the owner told me that he was waiting for a rugby team that got stuck in the snow near Marseile. The BBC report said there was also snow in Barcelona. Quite windy at night, thought my tent would blow over, but it held tight.

Met the nicest french dog in a cafe. Black and white spaniel came up to my table as I sat down and placed his paw on my knee to shake hands. He looked me right in the eye as if he wanted to tell me something, but as he was a french dog he seemed to know no english. He stayed by my side the whole time while his owner played cards at the next table.

The whole region I am passing through now is vinyards, all the grapes have been picked, and they are prunning off this years growth. A lot of the fields are flooded and rivers clogged with junk from last weeks floods. Bit o a problem finding a dry camping spot.

Found a self service laundramat, and was able to do my laundry. Seems to be more laundramats in France than Spain. Met a British bicycle tourist and talked for a while, he did not have a very high opinion of the French, but I find them friendly.

Getting 4 or 5 emails every morning now, quite nice to hear fro everybody while on the road.

Well till next week, I am headed east towards Marseile and Italy. Any questions or comments on my walk email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org . One of my mottos is "There is no shame in failure, only in not trying, and not trying again untill you succeed". Au revoir.

Weeks 4-6

Week Four
11-24-99 to 11-30-99 Sete, France to Cassis, via Montpellier and Marseille.140 miles, 20mpd, 4118 total World Walk miles.

Back to t-shirt and shorts during the afternoon, but nights are still chilly with ice on my tent in the morning. At noon when I unroll my tent to dry it usually still has ice in it.

Stopped by a TV reporter in Marseille for an interview. Bruno walked along the road with his camera on his shoulder as he asked me questions about my walk. I asked him to mail my mom a tape of the interview.

Kei Anzai a teacher at the University at Luminy stopped to talk, and asked me to give a talk to his internet class about my walk. Nice class. They gave me a roaring applause as I wheeled in my stroller. They seemed to be quite interested and asked quite a few questions. I was treated to lunch, a hot shower, and allowed to use the computer. First hot shower in a month so it felt quite good. Some of the most basic things are the most enjoyable if you have not had one in along time. I have been keeping clean by taking a quick sponge bath in a cafe or gas station rest room.

Quite a few people have been stopping to talk and give me food. In le Rove Lorenzo walked with me for a while and gave me a big bag of oranges and dried fruit and nuts. One man stopped to give me 2 pieces of chicken in tin foil. A family invited me into their hotel for coffee and a big bag of apples. I usually give them my card with website and email address, and have gotten emails from 5 people so far that want me to send them my articles and follow my walk. Beautiful castle up on the hill in Fos-sur-Mer where Laurent and Yann stopped to talk. Two Jehovahs Witnesses stopped and I met two more Morman missionaries in Marseille. Always nice to talk to some Americans and ask them questions about things I do not understand here.

Passed along the northern edge of the Parc de Camargue, a natural wetland with wild horses and a gypsy gathering in the spring. Quite a few white horses along the road, that come over to check me out when I walk by and beep my horn.

Most of the villages have these big sycamore trees lining the roads and canals. One workingman I talked to said they were 150 to 200 years old. They are about 2 to 3 foot across at the base and 40 to 50 feet high. The leaves are just turning brown, not much fall color like we get in the USA.

While I was passing through Arles on saturday they had a big street market going on. Fruit, clothes, crafts, rugs, pretty much anything you could think of. Got directions from a local guy who panicked a bit when his child dissapeared in the crowd. Luckily he found her and came back to finish giving me directions to Marseille.

Nobody was able to answer my question last week. It seems that the Roman Army had standardized axle lengths 2000 years ago, and since they built the roads once the ruts were worn in everybody else built their carts and carriages to the same standard. It is very uncomftable to not ride in the ruts in a cobblestone road. So when the British started building trains last century they used the same standard axle size that they were still using from Roman times, as the Romans built many roads in England.

Well till next week I am headed east towards Toulon and Nice. If you have any question or comments on my walk email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org , enjoy life, get out and walk every day. Au revoir. ps, if you want to email me do not click on reply, as my brother is fowarding this from my yahoo email address, I have too many addresses now in my pocketmail account, send to my pocketmail adress. gary walkingman hause

Week Five
12-1-99 to 12-7-99 Cassis, France to Nice, via Toulon and Cannes 152 miles, 22mpd, 4270 total World Walk miles.

Days are getting shorter, seems like I lose 3 or 4 minutes of light every day. Looking foward to the winter solstice coming up soon. Days will start getting longer and as I head south in to Italy hopefully warmer.

Marc Grant from Chicago (who set up my new website for me, Linn Boswell wrote the code for my original website at geocities) emailed me asking what I am eating and where am I camping. I usually start out with cafe crema in the nearest cafe, while I read and reply to my email. Next I pick up a fresh loaf of bread at the bakery, every small town has at least 2 or 3. Supermarket next, for yogurt, camenbert cheese, dates, oranges, apples, bananas, muselix, and 3 1.5 liter bottles of water. I have a camp stove and small pressure cooker, sometimes I cook oatmeal or a stew of tuna, potato, onion, and carrot.

Every night just after the sun sets I start looking for some woods, picnic area, park, pullout, or hidden spot where I can pitch my tent with out be bothered.

While having coffee one morning a stong gust of wind started my stroller moving just outside the window of cafe. Luckily I was able to jump up quickly enough to grap it just as it was about to jump the curb into the street. Accidentaly drop tested my pocketmail computer about 3 feet on to the telephone booth floor. No damage at all luckily. One windy day I had lunch in a telephone booth, 30mph chilly winds. Nice and warm in a 6 sided all glass phone booth.

Met Michele and his dog Le Granduer while they were bicycling near St. Maxime. He had his dog in basket up front, fully loaded panniers, and a guitar on his back. Makes his living singing and writing songs in town centers and camps out like me. I have my harmonica with me, but even after studying book and tape on harmonica for complete musical idiots, I still can not play a song. I think you have to find what you are good at and enjoy doing, and not worry to much about the things you can not seem to get right.

Went past Jules Vernes house (author of "Around The World in 80 Days"). At my rate of 25mpd it would take me 1000 days if I keep on walking with out stopping or having any problems. Talked to American expatriot who said Boris Yeltsin had bought a house nearby. Probably with money the IMF and USA are sending Russia.

Found a purse on the side of road with keys, ID, glasses, and checkbook. I dropped them off at the next town to a group of people having a telethon. J. Charles came out with his laptop and a digital camera to take a picture of me. He emailed it to my brother, who had it posted on my website.

Met a class of students and their teacher in Le Cannet. They all asked me many questions and signed my journal and drew pictures and wishes of a good journey. They also gave me one of their delicous sack lunches.

From Toulon I have been using a real nice bike trail off and on, even lighted at night in some places. Much more peaceful and quiet.

Well till next week, I am headed east towards Mont Carlo and Italy. If you have any questions or comments about my walk email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org . My mottoo for this week is "Today is the first day of the rest of your life, live it like it could be your last, for each day is special. Au revoir.

gary walkingman hause

Week Six
12-8-99 to 12-14-99 Nice, France to Genova, Italy, via San Remo and Allasio 147 miles, 21mpd, 4417 total World Walk miles

Survived my first car accident in Europe. Car stopped for right turn in front of me was looking left at on coming traffic, I was beeping my small plastic horn and making eye contact with passenger. Only a very small break in traffic coming up, did not think he would take it. As I walked in front of him he accelerated about a foot before seeing me, just brushed my wheel as I jumped back to avoid him, no harm done. Most drivers seem to be considerate of walkers and bicyclists, but they all seem to act like race car drivers. Common following distance is one car length, which means they do not see me until the car ahead passes me, then they jerk the wheel to the left in a over reaction.

Interviewed in Nice by M6 TV reporter on the beach walk. Funny watching the reaction of others as he ran ahead of me, and filmed me as i walked towards him. The next day an Associated Press reporter chased me down from Nice with his motorcycle. Two photographers took pictures while the reporter asked me questions. Email me if you see any AP articles about me in the USA. Kind of neat getting some media attention. I guess everybody likes to feel special and unique, get their 15 minutes of fame.

Walking through Monaco I had to keep going till 8pm before finding a place to camp. The city is very steep and everything is fenced in and guarded. Finally found a spot at the end of the beach among some trees and bushes.

While having cappicino one morning the cafe owner presented me with a bottle of champagne for the millenium. Not much of a drinker, so I will probably give it away, unless I meet up with some people to celebrate with. Another couple treated me to cappicino and a brioche, tasty croissant with fruit filling. In Priaruggia, at the Borghi bar, the owner treated me to a second cup of cappicino. When people see my stroller I guess they just want to help me out on my journey. When I reached a dead end in Monte Carlo, two workers said they recognized me from TV and drew a map to set me right.

Weighed myself at beach scale, 178 pounds for me, 80 pounds of gear, food and water, and 25 pounds for the stroller. Ron Rollee, a USA bicyclist stopped to talk while on a training ride for the Olympics.

Lost my Pocketmail computer in Nervia, just east of Genova. Having a problem with Italian phones, do not want to accept my 800 acess number for my telephone card. After about 5 phones and 10 trys I still had not got through, so I guess i forgot my computer. Ran back about 5 minutes later when I noticed it missing from the ziploc bag I keep my map in. Gone already, so reported to police, and Daniel was quite helpful filling out the forms and giving me a copy. I started walking back to phone asking people to read police report, 2nd person, taxi driver across from phone booth had it. So I gave him my bottle of champagne. I guess I could go back to mailing in my articles, but i would miss getting emails every day.

Going through mostly tourist areas now with Hotels and camping areas. The hills are terraced all the way up with houses. Reached the farthest northern point now and headed south for warmer weather. During the afternoon I am usually down to shorts and t-shirt, while the locals are bundled up in fur coats and hats.

Well till next week, I am headed south for Livirno and Rome. If you have any questions or comments email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org . My motto for this week is Carpe Diem, seize the day. a riva dirche.

Weeks 7-9

Week Seven
12-15-99 to 12-21-99 Genova, Italy to Livorno via LaSpezia and Pisa 140 miles, 20mpd, 4557 Total World Walk miles

The winter solstice has come and now the days will start getting longer and hopefully warmer as I head south for Rome, Brindisi, ferry across to Corfu, then on to Athens and Istanbul. Would like to fly to London next to visit friends and to walk across England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales. This summer I will either fly to Australia to walk from Perth to Sydney, or return to work at Lake Powell, Arizona.

I am at the 313 kilometer mark on the via Aurelia, a road the Roman Army Core of Engineers built more than 2000 years ago. At about 35 kilometers per day I should make Rome by about the 31st.

Crossed over thr Passo del Bracco at 1800 feet just NW of La Spezia. Sunny and warm up on top, even though there wes 3 inches of snow from last night. It got colder as i got lower in the narrow canyons with frost still on the ground and the sun behind the hills by 2:30. Had a nice cup of cappicino with the owner of La Bracca cafe just below the pass. Got my first view of CNN in 2 months.

Marc Grant asks if I have any advice for those who want to have an adventure like mine. Just start with a notebook and write down what you want to do, and what you need to do it. Probably you will have to save up some money, get in better shape, take a leave of absence from work or school. Set a date and just do it. Humans can do just about anything we put are mind to, we might not succeed the first time, but the fun is in the journey, not the destination. Marc also asks how my body is holding out. I am feeling great, the more I walk the better I feel. My two blisters toughened up, and my only other sore spot is my left shoulder when I go up hills. Old hang gliding bruise from a bad landing. Marc also asks what my worst expierience is, changing a flat tire in the rain, dark, narrow road with lots of traffic. Six flats so far, takes about ten minutes to fix.

One man stopped and presented me with an early christmas present, a bottle of wine and a Genovese fruit cake. Had a cappicino and chat with Ralph, a vet from New Zealand working here in Italy. Jeana from Vermont orginally stopped to talk, and gave a nice hug upon parting. Just about every day somebody buys me cappicino.

Stopped in Pisa to see the Leaning Tower, met 4 americans that took a picture for me. I always think of Galileo when he dropped the two balls off the leaning tower to prove that they drop at the same speed.

Lost my favorite green wool army sweater, dropped off my stroller. Went back 30 minutes to search for it, but no luck. Will have to pick one up at the next saturday street market, they usually have somebody selling military clothes.

Well till next week. I am headed south for Rome. If you have any questions or comments email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org . My motto for this week is, Zippity do dah, zippity day, o what a beautiful day, plenty of sunshine coming my way. zippity do dah, zippity day.

gary walkingman hause

Week Eight
12-22-99 to 12-28-99 Livorno, Italy to Civitavecchia, via Grosseto 154 miles, 22mpd, 4711 Total World Walk miles

Only 80 kilometers away from Rome now, should walk in on the 31st. Will look for hostel and stay overnight, if possible. Walk around a bit without my stroller and see all the old buildings and ruins. Used to sleeping by 8pm, so not sure if I will be able to stay awake for midnight celebrations.

Seems to be getting warmer now as I head south. Did have a big wind, hail, and rainstorm on the 28th. Not sure if it was part of the storm that devastated northern Europe. Nice rainbow before it hit me, 30mph tailwinds with rain and hail off and on till noon. Kept having to put on and take off my nylon coveralls as the rain came and went.

Christmas eve I stopped at a gas station to use the bathroom. The attendant came out and filled my tires with air, and presented me with a merry Christmas 99 tin of sweets. I did not even buy any gas, nice guy. One guy slowed down to yell merry Christmas from his car. Talked to Billy from Tennessee, and Claudia from Italy.

Lost my sweater last week, this week I found 4 brand new sweaters in a fancy shopping bag at a picnic area. Clean and dry, still folded up, somebody must have known I needed one. I took the black wool turtleneck and left the rest for the next person that needed a sweater. Just missed the Saturday street fair, they had it on Friday the day before Christmas this week. They were just cleaning up the street as I came into the town of Follonica. Had a nice slice of pizza and cappuccino on the house at Antonios Pizzeria.

A question from Beate in Germany on how I am handling all the different languages. I have a small paperback phrase book with 8 different languages. Luckily most Europeans know 2 or 3 languages. I write down the words for please, thank you, hello, goodbye, pardon, bathroom, and coffee with milk. I learn a lot of others words just by reading the signs of shops and other places. That seems to get me by good enough. It would be nice to be fluent in all the languages, but not possible for me in the time I have. I do plan on becoming fluent in Spanish before walking Mexico, Central and South America.

South of Grosseto there seemed to be a shortage of towns on the main road so I had to take a side trip to Allegresso for cappuccino and groceries. Only store closed, so I had 2 cappuccinos and 2 brioches to tide me over. Asked one local if there was any other place to buy food, and he said no. Checked the other cafe about 50 feet away, on a hunch, and luckily they had a mini store, so I was able to buy fruit, water, yoghurt, cookies, and nutella. Forgot with Christmas on Saturday and a lot of stores closed on Sunday that I was going to have a problem getting supplies, but it worked out all right.

Mostly going through flat farming areas now with the central range of mountains visible inland about 20 miles. Could see snow on the tops of the Alps further north. On the tops of some hills I can see old Roman watch towers as I get closer to Rome. Well till next week, I am headed south for Rome and Naples. If you have any questions or comments, email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org . A riva dirchee.

gary walkingman hause

Week Nine
12-29-00 to 1-4-00 Civitavecchia, Italy to Formia, via Rome 154 miles, 22mpd, 4865 Total World

Made it in to Rome for the Millennium. Quite an impressive city with all the old ruins and cobblestone streets. Too crowded with cars and people for me though. Picked up a Christmas present at the American Express office from my brother Dave and his family Karla, Nick and Curtis. Walked around Rome for a couple hours to see some of the major sights. Talked to people from USA, Slovenia, England, Germany, and Italy. Everybody said all the hostels were full, so I decided to keep on walking southeast on the Appian way, an old cobblestone road with walls on both sides. Heard later on BBC that Rome was a mess, 3 million people, too few toilets, gridlocked streets.

Listened at midnight to BBC and VOA on my Grundig shortwave radio. I was only 5 miles outside Rome and I could hear fireworks going off all night. I awoke at 6am to find my tent frozen solid with ice and frost. Listened to new years eve again in NY on VOA. Still nice and warm in my sleeping bag, but I usually strike camp in about 15 minutes, and walk quickly to the first cafe for cappuccino and a brioche, and write up in my journal all of yesterdays events.

A lot of people have been asking about my shoes. Been using Rockport boots, plain black leather, 6 inches high. Wore out the original sole after only 1200 miles, soft indoor sole, so I had a cobbler put on a lugged Vibram hiking sole. Over 1500 miles so far and only a little wear on the outside heel. Did try and order some Rocky boots, but they did not have my size. Twice a week I apply some black wax shoe polish to keep them waterproof. They look a lot like the shoes my grandfather used to wear around the farm. Usually around noon if it is warm, I put on my Teva sandals, and wear them the rest of the day. They seem to be quite comfy, and give my feet more air. Wore out three pairs of Smartwool socks, about 450 miles or 20 days per pair. Was finally able to find some wool socks outside a supermarket from a shopping cart vendor. Three pairs for 12,000 lira, or $6 US, they are about 3 feet long, so I think I will cut them in half, sew up the top half closed and save them for later.

One evening after setting up my tent in an overgrown lane next to a canal,and climbing inside, I noticed a small rodent climbing up the outside of my rainfly. I gave him a wack and heard him land about 5 feet away. He came back about 5 minutes later, so I wacked him a little harder and heard him land about 10 feet away. I heard him later chewing on a empty water bottle I had left on the ground, probably attracted to the sugar I put in my sun tea.

The Appian Way road so far has been quite nice so far. It took me up in to the hills for a day, then straight southeast with big pine trees every 100 feet on both sides. About 3 feet across at the base, and 50 feet high, with light and dark brown striped bark like our Ponderosa pines. Back on the coast again at Terracina with a nice Roman Villa on top of the hill over looking the beach.

Well till next week, I am headed southeast for Napoli and Pompeii. If you have any questions or comments, email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org . A riva dirchee.

Weeks 10-12

Week Ten
1-5-00 to 1-11-00 Italy 168 miles, 24mpd, 5033 total World Walk miles

Amazing how time flies when you are having fun. I have been walking across Europe for 72 days now. Moving right along between 20 to 25 miles per day. ETA for Istanbul is around the first week of March.

Stopped at the ruins in Pompei to walk around for a look see. Beautiful sunny day with Mt Vesuvius visible off to the northwest. The volcano blew in 79 AD and buried the area in ash. Amazing how well preserved the town is, now that it has been uncovered. You can walk down the streets and walk in to houses, theaters, forums, temples, bath houses, and through a huge coliseum. Pliny the Younger witnessed the eruption from Naples and wrote about it in a letter to Tacitus a historian, so there is a eyewitness account.

Near Minturno I saw a section of an old Roman aqueduct still standing. About 10 feet wide, and 40 feet high, made of stone and brick, a series of arches. I have heard their are old Roman aqueduct still standing and delivering water from the hills. Not sure any thing we are building now will last 2000 years.

My hair and beard were getting pretty long, 2 months since I cut it, about 1 inch long. So near Gaeta I found a barber to take it all off. Felt a lot better, and easier to keep clean.

Near Agropoli a man stopped to give me a hat and t-shirt from the local trekking club. Near Palinuro a couple guys by a fruit stand talked for a while and bought me a big bag of fruit, vegetables, bread, and cheese, about 20 pounds. I was kinda of worried that I was over loading my stroller, but it seemed to take the extra load okay.

On a narrow, curvy, up an down, coast road now. The hills are terraced with stone walls for the olive trees. Some trees are 3 to 5 feet across at the base, they most be really old. They have big mesh nets underneath to catch the olives, and they are pruning off a lot of branches right now.

Coming in to Naples one morning there was a big traffic jam on the narrow local road. I passed everybody going up a long hill. It was just one car double parked blocking the road. Police were directing cars past it. People here in Italy seem just to park anywhere, on the sidewalk, double parked on a narrow road, and create a lot of problems. Sometimes the local road is cobblestones, kind of bumpy for my stroller.

Should be heading inland this week at Sapri to cross over the mountains to get to Brindisi where I will take the ferry to Greece. Looks like a pass of about 2500 feet, so it should not be to hard. Maybe some snow up top.

Well till next week, email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org if you have any questions. I think my website has been down for a while, but hopefully a friend will get it going again soon. chow.

gary walkingman hause

Week Eleven
1-12-00 to 1-18-00 Pisciota to Taranto via Sapri and Nemoli 182 miles, 26 mpd, 5215 total World Walk miles

Only 2 more days and I should be taking the ferry from Brindisi to Greece. I cut inland from Sapri over two mountain passes. Talked to a group of Italian teenagers by the beach in Sapri. They gave me some info on the road ahead, although it sounded good, it turned out not to be very accurate. Vito, who was walking and hitching around Europe with just a daypack and sleeping bag translated for me.

Took me from 4pm Thursday till 4pm on Friday to go over a 2000 foot pass, about 10 miles up many switchbacks, and a 4000 foot pass, over some very steep local roads near Nemoli. I also did a 1700 foot pass on the coast starting at Marina di Camerota up steep switchbacks through a narrow hilly town of Lentiscosa. The town was so narrow they had a stop light at both ends of one section. A big truck was coming through at 5mph almost scraping the walls.

I was glad to get through the mountains and start downhill for the coast. Probably my toughest day, but I came through okay, a little tired maybe, but feeling pretty good.

The road down to the coast follows the river Sinni all the way. Lots of tunnels, bridges, and on stilts over the floodplain for quite a while. All the towns are up on hills overlooking the river. I guess from old times when it was easier to defend from on top of a hill from enemies. Saw some nice old Grecian ruins near Metaponto. The Greeks pushed into southern Italy about 2700 years ago before clashing with the Romans.

Interviewed by TV reporter in Policoro. He gave a nice regional map and guidebook. I have a Michelin road map of Italy, but it leaves out a lot of the small towns and local roads. The regional maps show a lot more detail and would have saved me a lot of time and frustration. I looked at a big road atlas of Europe, but it was telephone book size and cost $50. Should have got it, but hindsight is a perfect science.

Two police cars stopped to talk, no trouble, just curious about what I was doing. Camped in an old ruined barn or stable. The walls were made of stone and 3 feet thick, maybe 200 or 300 years old. A couple homeless dogs barked at me during the night. I guess I was in their territory, no problem though, they always bark but never come very close.

Talked to 5 British oil workers in a cafe near Taranto. They were all drinking huge bottles of beer at 10 am. I got a little lost coming in to Taranto on the frontage road. It turned in to a dirt road, then dumped me on to railroad tracks, over 6 tracks, down gravel road. A big locomotive engine came over and the men in the cab asked me what I was doing. Under bridge and back up on ss7, he Appian way again. In to Taranto along the waterfront just as the sun was setting near an old fort.

Well till next week, I am headed for Brindisi, and Greece. Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org if you have any questions or comments on my walk. chow.

gary walkingman hause

Week Twelve
1-19-2000 to 1-25-2000 Taranto, Italy to Amfilohia, Greece, via Brindisi and Igoumenitsa 132 miles, 22mpd, with one off day on ferry, 200 boat miles, 5215 Total World Walk miles

Made it to Greece on the ferry from Brindisi. Light rain as I got off the 10 hour boat ride at 8 pm in the dark. Was able to get some Drachmas at the bank ATM, and the telephone worked good with my pocketmail computer. Camped in a vacant lot about 300 yards from the dock. Lightning and rain during the night and a wandering dog kept barking at me. Had to chase him away twice to quiet him down. Every night there is at least one or two dogs barking at me, from anywhere at 50 feet to 500 feet away. They have an amazing sense of smell and hearing. I wonder sometime if there is some kind of dog news grapevine. Some how news of my walk has spread across dogkind of Europe and they all bark advice and greetings at me. I am not sure what they are saying, maybe say hello to fred my uncle in the next town, or hey you cannot camp there, this is my humans woods. They probably pass the news on, this crazy two legger is walking across Europe pushing a 3 wheeled cart and beeping his annoy! ing plastic horn at everybody.

The first day in Greece was warm and sunny, but second day was hail and rainstorm, and third day a wet snow storm. Tuesday night I got up at 2 am to put more clothes on, and ended up starting a campfire to warm up. In the morning I lit the fire again to warm up and unstick my frozen tent poles.

In Brindisi I met three Pakistanis driving from London to Kashmir. As I will hopefully walk the same route through Asia one day, I asked them a lot of questions about the road.

Stayed in the youth hostel at Brindisi. Took a very enjoyable hot shower, and did laundry for the first time since France. I have been rinsing out my bike shorts, bike shirt, and socks at fountains and roadside springs. Could not find any self service laundromats in Italy, there were only places where you left laundry and came back the next day.

Talked to the only other guests at the hostel, Casey from California, and Freddy from Guatamala. Nice fire in the lobby, but the hostel was very cold. Most buildings in Europe seem to be concrete and brick with no central heating, just small electric or wood stoves. Nice big heavy wool blanket on my bed, and I grapped an extra blanket, but every time I went to bathroom at night I had to wrap blanket around me and wear sandals as floor was freezing, and all my clothes except one pair of shorts and t-shirt were still in washer. Got up early to walk to ferry office, checked laundry and had to put in dryer as the guy forgot. Wanted to take another hot shower, but hot water was off. I think instead of big water tanks a lot of Europe has on demand heater units that send the water through a coil surrounded by gas flames and direct to shower. They only have it on in the evening I guess. Nobody else awake so I packed up and left hostel at 8 am. Outside fence was locked and I coul! d not leave. Groundskeeper did not have key to let me out, but said staff would be there soon. They showed up at 840am and gave me a big cup of cappiccino before driving me down to ferry office just in time. The ferry offical said I just had time to run into grocery store before catching minibus to dock. So I grapped a bunch of food, was able to ask somebody if I could jump ahead of them in the line at cashier, and just made it as minibus pulled up. The ferry was late leaving anyway, so there was really no reason to hurry. One dock worker asked me if I was selling ice cream bars as I strolled on to the ferry. A lot of people ask me what I am selling.

Took it easy on the ferry, watched a couple movies, sewed up rips in my clothes, (continued) and walked around deck just to keep loose. My pocketmail computer can only send 4000 characters, so I ran out of space this week.

Talked to Fred from South Africa in a cafe near the ruins at Nikopoli. He had built a sailboat and sailed it up to Greece. Another ferry at Preveza where Alex told me there was a famous naval battle in 61 b.c. involving Cleopatra in some way.

The cafes here are pretty basic, usually instant coffee heated in a small pot over gas burner, no expresso machine, but nice wood stoves to warm up by.

The Greek people so far have been real nice. Many people slow down and yell, hello my american friend. Road has been very hilly so far, with lots of snow covered mountains around. Always seems to be somebody in each cafe I stop at that can translate all the questions the men have for me. No women in the cafes, unless they work there.

Well till next week, I am headed south for Patras and Athens. Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org . yassas, which means both hello and goodbye, although everybody seems to just say yas.

gary walkingman hause

*****
January 21, 2000
Notes from The Brindisi to Greece Ferry

This is not a full article, but since i have plenty of time on the ferry ride, i thought i would unload a few thoughts. a lot of people ask me why i am doing this walk around the world. i say for adventure, fun, and good exercise. i have read a lot about explorers, discovers, nomads, and just plain people out on journeys. i always wanted to write a book and share some of my adventures with others, so i thought walking around the world would be something interesting and unique to do. every day i never know what is going to happen.

Sometimes i have bad weather, meet good people, see beautiful sights, run low on food or water and have trouble finding more, have a hard time finding a good spot to camp, get into some kind of trouble. all kinds of things, but some how i manage to keep on going. sometimes i have a bad day, but then something happens to cheer me up, and i am singing zippity do dah again. the only song i know all the words to, the first verse anyway, still working! on the second verse, something about a blueberry on my shoulder. well i hope you are all enjoying my articles, let me know if you are, always glad to hear from anybody. aloha.

Weeks 13-14

Week Thirteen
1-26-2000 to 2-1-2000 Amfilohia, Greece to Kineta, via Patras and Korinthos 168 miles, 24 mpd, 5515 Total World Walk miles

Finally getting hot days as I get closer to Athens. Had to soak my bandana with water and wear it under my hat to keep cool, and keep the sun off my neck and face. Walking along a nice quiet coast road now, the water looks very beautiful, so I waded in, freezing but feels good on my tired feet.

Passed the turn off for a ski resort in the mountains above Patras, saw a couple cars with skis on top. 6000 feet high according to the map.

Took another ferry across to Rio, three wheeled bread carts at the docks. Similar to mine only three times bigger, might put bigger wheels on mine when I do Australia so I can carry more food and water. I was stirring in muselix(granola) into my yogurt with my finger on the ferry, when a guy came up to me and gave me his swiss army knife with a spoon on it. Lost my knife a month ago, had a spoon, but I lost a couple tent stakes and have been using the spoon and a silver butter knife a guy gave me in Monaco as tent stakes. I like to add tea and drink my yogurt.

Got bit by a dog for the first time here in Europe. He only caught my pant leg though, no skin. He was guarding his owners fruit van I guess, who gave me an orange as compensation. Mostly they just bark from behind their fence or property line, but since this dog was guarding a movable object, I passed into his territory.

Talked to four Gypseys walking along the road. The mother had a knife in her hand, I think she had just been cutting herbs or vegtables in the fields. She was waving it around a little while she talked, just normal hand gestures, I did not feel threatened. They were either asking me for drachmas, or wondered how I made money. I said no drachmas, yassas, and kept on walking, no knife in my back.

As I was going up a steep pass just before dusk a greek lady all dressed in black started talking to me from her balcony. I said yassas, and said I understood little Greek. Not sure if she was inviting me up for dinner, or that she wanted me to marry her daughter. I wanted to get up and over the pass before dark, so I said yassas, and kept on walking. That would hav been a good time to have a translater fish in my ear. They come from the planet whats its name. Cannot remember, its in Douglas Adams, Hitchhikers Guide To The Galaxy. Its a genenitcally modified organism, that can translate and read thoughts of any living species. You put it in your ear and it links up with your brain. You can only get them at alien stores, and you need a security clearance. So if anybody sees somebody with a fish tail sticking out of their ear, or is sprinkling goldfish food on their food , try and find out where they got theirs.

Shared some appitizers and coffee with some truck drivers in a roadside cafe. All the cafes have all glass fronts, so everybody watchs me as I pull up, and usually have questions for me. Talked to 3 Nigerians at a gas station, and one gave me 1000 drachmas to help me on my walk. Always nice when people are impressed with what I am doing and want to help me along the way.

Stopped at a bakery for bread, donut, and a cheese filled pastry, no charge, good luck on your walk they said.

I heard on the radio that a 90 year old grandmother has almost reached Washington D.C. from California. She has been walking 10 miles a day, raising money for campaign finance reform. She has a support van. Her website is www.grannyd.com. If your determination to succeed is strong enough, you can accomplish anything.

Well till next week, I am headed for Athens. Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or check out my website at www.walkingman.org yassas

gary walkingman hause

Week Fourteen
2-2-2000 to 2-3-2000 Kineta to Athens, Greece, London, and the USA 35 miles, 17 mpd, 5550 Total World Walk miles

Made it to Athens on Febuary 3rd, 2034 miles in 94 days from Nules, Spain. Plus the 1042 miles in 42 days I did from Lisbon, Portugal to Nules, that makes a total across Europe of 3076 miles in 136 days.

I had planned on walking to Istanbul, Turkey, but I decieded for now this is far enough. When I start my walk across Asia, I will start in Athens, go to Istanbul, across Turkey, Iran, Pakistan, India, and then either northeast through China, or southeast through Burma and Malaysia depending on weather and the political situation.

My body needs a rest for a while. Flying to London to visit some friends, then back to New York and Virgina to visit family and friends. Heading out west to work the last month of the ski season at Brian Head, Utah, so I can get some snowboarding in, and check on how my cabin survived the winter. They get 500 inches of snow in a good year, so I put on a metal roof, with a 60 degree pitch. I have a lot of dead spruce trees that I need to cut down before they fall on my cabin, spruce beetles went through 2 years ago and killed everything. Starting work at Wahweap Lodge at Lake Powell, Arizona May 15th. Had a great time walking across Europe. Met lots of nice people, saw lots of great sights, looking foward to my next walk. Either across Austrlia, June through September 2001, or Mexico to Panama, November through Feburary 2001. Have to study Spanish all summer and become fluent before I can tackle Mexico.

Planning on rewriting all my articles this summer, adding things I left out and expanding on things I wrote about. Will be submitting to book publisher this fall. Anyone that has suggestions or knows anyone in the publishing buisness let me know, or foward this article to them.

As I came into Athens I could see the Acropolis off in the distance on top of a hill. Later I had a chance to walk up and see it, very beautiful view of the city spread out all around.

I was stopped by some Gypsey kids working at a intersection selling stuff and squigeeing car windshields. They gave me a handful of change, I think they wanted to buy ice cream bars, or whatever I had in my stroller. The older brother had his foot under my wheel to keep me from leaving. They did not seem to understand my explanation of what I was doing, so I gave back the change and ran over his foot to get away. Good time for a translater fish. They looked like they needed the money more than I did. A Greek I talked to later said they make quite a bit of money at intersections and were sort of putting me down by giving me money, like I was poorer than them. Hard to tell what they were thinking.

A Greek man stopped to talk and invited me to his home for a home cooked dinner, hot shower, warm bed, and to meet his family. Just what I needed to finish off my walk. They were both teachers and had a huge stack of books, maybe 2000, in the hallway while bookshelfs were being built.

Stopped at the Hostel Festos to get a bed in the penthouse suite at $9 a night. Picked up another care package from my brother Dave and his wife Karla at the American Express office. Booked a flight to London, only $77, cheap, although I have to be at airport at 3am. Took a nice hot shower at hostel, but hot water only lasts 5 minutes. When I get home I will take a 30 minute hot shower, and soak in jacuzzi tub while eating a big bowl of chocalate peanut butter ice cream.

One thing in Europe that has bothered me is the roadside trash. Huge amounts every where, and at every pullout there is a illegal dumpsite. Tires, construction waste, rotten fruit, refrigiraters, even the kitchen sink.

With the high unemployment rate here in Europe they should put people to work picking up trash. I bet half the people would get a real job instead of picking up trash in order to get an unemployment check.

Another thing is the missing toilet seats. About 50% of the toilets have no seat, one less thing to clean I guess, and no controversy about whether to leave the seat up or down. You have to be careful and not pull a Ally McBeal and fall inside. I wonder whether people steal them as a prank, or that they are real expensive. I guess you could hide one under you jacket if you were desperate. Mcdonalds always has them, they must check every hour and have a case back in the store room. Wonder how many they go through per day.

Well till my next walk, hope you all have enjoyed my articles. Will let you know when I am about to start my next walk. If you have any questions or comments, email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it , or check out my web site at www.walkingman.org , will be adding more pictures and rewriting everything soon.

My motto for this walk. The only failed dreams are those never attempted. yassas

gary walkingman hause

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